No. Seriously, have you seen it? I have a room the same size in my house. It’s called a closet. Yet somehow, Chef Todd Johnson, sous chef Nelson and various and sundry other kitchen help wedge themselves in there for hours at a time. And with a few knife slashes and some carefully calculated seasoning tosses, out come some of the most interesting and well prepared dishes you can get your hands on in these parts.
You can opt for romance and candlelight, but day or night, the atrium entry is fine for dining. It’s tall and airy, giving the feeling of a much bigger room. Since it is separated only by glass from a much larger patio, it sort of is a much bigger room.
Like many of Richmond’s new eating/drinking establishments, Mezzanine is owned and run by three good friends who have earned stripes in the local restaurant industry. It’s not a new story: waiter, chef and bartender toil for years in other people’s restaurants, then open their own. The good news: Those endeavors are usually successful.
This year-old entry, in what was formerly an art gallery and coffee shop, is no exception. Randy O’Dell, bartender Patrick Stamper and Chef Todd have worked with each other at a number of restaurants, toting up dozens of years of experience. Toss in old friend Bill Daniels (Billy D.), and you’ve got a lineup of seasoned professionals. Daniels is the steady hand responsible for maintaining the gi-normous chalkboards that serve as menus. It’s worth the climb upstairs to see one in a Victorian wooden frame in the actual mezzanine.
But back to the magical Barbie-size kitchen. The dishes it produces imply a larger operation than such a galley could hold. There are large plates (Quinoa French Lentil Salad, Lobster Crushed Potatoes, Thai Curry Green Chicken) and small plates (Pork and Shrimp Lemongrass Skewers, Shrimp and Grits). And there is brunch, which features egg dishes like Lobster Bacon Omelet (with yummy cheese) and, thank God, the Shrimp and Grits. Whether you love grits or hate ’em, you have to try these. The cupful of parmesan cream poured on top sets this one apart from any shrimp and grits you’ve ever had.
The kitchen also cranks out homemade desserts like Fried Banana Spring Rolls, Maker’s Mark Chocolate Pecan Pie, and fresh Lemon Pound Cake with Strawberry Coulis. If that isn’t enough to intrigue, the folks at Mezzanine pickle anything: green beans, white asparagus, okra, jalapenos, and green tomato slices that are crisp and sweet. Watch your fingers.
Stamper says they are as organic as possible. “It’s impossible to be 100 percent organic. A meal would cost $150.” But there is a directive: Keep it fresh, keep it local. They buy as much as possible from local purveyors. If it comes from the ground, it likely came from Manakintowne Farm. Even the grits are local, from Byrd Mill in Ashland.
Lunches are on the horizon. For now, Sunday brunch is your only daylight opportunity. Bellinis, Mimosas and Bloody Marys are $4. And there’s a Bloody Mary Bar starring all the pickled vegetables mentioned, different hot sauces, Worcestershires, and juices for patrons to make their own. Four bucks gets you a pint of ice, a shot of vodka, and all the bar additives you can handle
Sure, you can just plop down and tie one on. But stick around. Spoon up some grits. Crunch some French Fried French Toast. Enjoy watching the Cary Street foot traffic. Why would you want to be anywhere else?
WEB | http://www.mezzanine3433.com
Mezzanine | 3433 W. Cary St. | Carytown | 353.2186
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