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FOOD + DRINK
Taste It | Stronghill Dining Company
Jenny Hansen
October 29, 2008 2:00 PM
image

LAISSEZ FAIRE NEVER TASTED SO GOOD

Rob and Jessika Weaver weren’t necessarily considering opening a restaurant when they purchased the building across the street from one of their most successful ventures, River City Tattoo. But two years later, Stronghill Dining Company came to fruition because the Weavers knew all the right people.
 
“The building came first,” Weaver said. “We just wanted to buy it before someone moved in we weren’t fond of.”
 
Calling it a “long-term investment,” Weaver and his wife purchased the property in December 2006 and began to brainstorm what to do with the vacant lot adjacent to Velocity that was once home to Motor Europa.
 
The restaurant idea surfaced, largely because the couple knows so many people in the industry — “because of the tattooship,” Weaver said.
 
And we’re not talking about starving students trying to scrape up some book money by waiting tables. We’re talking career professionals who are known around town for being the best in their trade.
 
“These are veterans — people who have pride in what they do,” Weaver said. “We got the right people.”
 
Admittedly not restaurateurs themselves (Rob was in the Richmond Police Department before his entrepreneurships and Jessika managed tattoo parlors for years before owning her own), the couple made an important decision that has so far paid off: They pay the taxes and keep the lights on and let the staff do what they do best.
 
“We hired true professionals and let them run their own restaurant,” Weaver said.
 
In fact, the Weavers hired an expert to hire experts. General Manager Cole Bucholtz (previously of Europa, Border, Banditos, Starlite, etc.) was one of their first recruits, who essentially “hand picked” the rest of the staff from the best of the best.
 
And to sweeten the deal, there is an uncharacteristic lack of pressure on the new restaurant and its team to generate a killing right away.
 
“For us, making money is less of a concern,” Weaver said. “We’re okay because we own the building. We don’t need to stuff our pockets.”
 
Hence the fair prices and laid-back, exclusively word-of-mouth marketing strategy that successfully generated buzz even before the October 1, opening.
 
As new restaurant owners with a talented staff, the Weavers are purposefully hands-off. Rob’s business card reads “Owner/Janitor.” They have the admirable ability to stand back and trust the experts they’ve hired.
 
“It makes a world of difference,” said Executive Chef Owen Lane, who was given minimal direction in putting together the first menu (keep it Southern-based) and a great deal of liberty to be creative.
 
Lane has been in professional kitchens for 14 years, including five years in Richmond restaurants like The Track, Helen’s, Bacchus and Michelle’s at Hanover Tavern. He has experience with just about every genre of cuisine, but was most heavily influenced by his mother’s Southern cooking. You can taste it in the basket of homemade breads that precede each meal—mom’s banana bread recipe, corn bread and fresh, hot rolls.
 
The menu features a nice variety, including sweet potato gnocchi ($14) and Lane’s specialty ribs ($16), which he “kept to himself for years,” and finally decided to share with customers. The menu also includes several game meats, like the pan-seared venison medallions ($26), Virginia peanut-fried half game hen ($19) and grilled quail ($20).
 
To Lane, a scratch kitchen is a must. His banana bread ice cream, for instance, started as milk that morning. He and Weaver both agree that it’s just not worth the customer’s time or money to come out unless the product is outstanding.
 
“Especially with the way money is right now,” Weaver said, “you should only pay for something that’s worth leaving your home for.” While Weaver lets his experienced staff run the show, ensuring the restaurant offers real value is one area in which he is hands-on.

What’s in Stronghill’s future? There are already rumors (some founded) of lunch, brunch, live music and even a rooftop patio. Keep an eye on http://www.stronghillrestaurant.com for details. –JENNY HANSEN
 
Even the restaurant design was left almost entirely to a local expert. Joshua Kayer of Martin-Star, designed some of the coolest looking booths in all of Richmond, not to mention a fabulous bar and other elements that truly stand out as stylish and unique (and are, incidentally, slightly reminiscent of tattoo designs — whether or not intentionally).
 
“We went to him because we heard great things about him,” Weaver said. And rather than stifling the artist’s creativity with unnecessarily detailed directions, Weaver simply let him do what he was good at, which yielded stunning results.

Stronghill Dining Company | 1200 N. Blvd. | 804.359.0202


Reader Comments:

I went to Stronghill in Dec. 2008 after Christmas and my wife and I were thrilled. So we went back in mid Jan. and had a nice meal, but not quite as good as before. We still made a reservation for six for Valentine’s day. We had a later reservation, so the kitchen was not THAT busy. Sadly, we were extremely disappointed. Our meals were terrible and the prices were ridiculous ($45 for a sliver of over-cooked salmon, some odd crab/seefood concoction, and three slices of fried tomato). It was so bad I didn’t even eat it. The waitress asked if I wanted another, but our meal was over by then(great service). Now it’s 4 am and I can’t sleep due to my upset stomach. What a disappointment. I have recommended Stronghill to many of my friends and clients, and now I hope I have not ruined any relationships. I will not be back.

Posted by on 02/15 at 04:05 AM

my first night out for months feb the 4th 09, my wife chose the new rest down from our house, some friends said it was good!!!
great place, they spent lots of $$$$ on this one, what a pitty they should have hired a good chef, the winelist under average, and oversized! the menu items looked like it had potential even though it took up the whole table(size of paper)whats up with that!
waitress clueless,but sweet.
managment if any not to be seen,great for a new rest.
started with sampler plater,i think the cook/chef had a bad experience with seasoning because there was no stand out flavours in ANY of the food it all tasted bland.
then we had the mahi mahi cook to perfection but absolutly no flavour! again no seasoning/garlic/spices to say the least flavourless great if you on the south beach diet!!!!!!!!!!!!
asked for collard greens that i saw on another item on the menu as a side, but the waitress came back and said the chef did not have enough to give me because he portions each one to that particular dish!!!!!!!!!!! understandable if you at the “soup kitchen” not a new rest. she returned and said the “chefs like that”
he must be very good!
we also had the gnocchi looked great on the plate,rustic and eye pleasing couldn’t wait,what not again , not a hint of seasoning,garlic or flavour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
dessert pretty good, pecan pie/creme brule’
thank goodness the majority of rest goers in richmond do not know what good food tastes like otherwise you would have a long uphill battle in this economy!
amazing what people with money do when they have no idea about running a rest,you have all the right stuff except for the staff(clueless) managment? and off course a chef who tastes his own food.
good luck
first and last visit!

Posted by on 02/06 at 08:43 AM

Talking with friends from Manakin Sabot and they mentioned that they want to go “some place different.“  We live in the city.  Picked up STYLE today and saw your ad.  Immediate thought, a new place on the Blvd????  Then, went to get my car washed (at Car Pool on the Blvd.) There you were right in front of me.  Called our friends immediately and we plan on visiting you Friday night 11/20.  Should we make reservations?

Looked at your menu and can’t wait to experience what you have to offer, from decor, which looks great from the outside, to your unique menu!

Posted by on 11/16 at 05:30 PM

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