Thrusting his hands outwards to boast a new found steadiness, Danielle Mergar says that with luck he might just make it to tomorrow.
“Today is my third day without coffee,“ he bemoans.
Once a coffee fiend, Mergar explains that he has nixed the java juice for an increasingly popular alternative-tea.
A tall task for anyone, Mergar, who is a barista at Capital Coffee and Deserts in Carytown, admits that he’s constantly tempted.
This coffee shop whiz kid ain’t the only one though, as more and more River City dwellers are attempting to ditch their Folger’s for specialty teas. In fact, the area’s top caffeine peddlers all report an increase in tea sippers-especially greens, oolongs, and blacks-as many coffee shop owners scramble to keep up.
These days Richmonders can select from a potpourri of tea options-those with additives (such as vitamins, minerals, and elixirs) all the way up to tea smoothies, chai lattes, and milk-based concoctions.
Many of the rare forms of tea can even be compared with the very best coffees and wines, and like anything new-come with a trendy-ness factor because they’re not mass-produced. Grown at higher altitudes, and most commonly sold loose leaf, specialty teas have risen in popularity among more adventuresome tea consumers.
Today specialty tea stores are proving to be the new coffee houses of yesterday. The US first took notice of this craze in the early ‘90s as specialty teas made their way throughout Los Angeles, San Francisco, Las Vegas, Seattle, and New York. As Eastern culture continued to move west, companies like Ito En Ltd, one of the world’s largest producers of green tea, and Saint’s Alp Teahouse franchise, set up shop in the Upper East Side in New York and continue to spread to this day.
Locally, such tea peddlers as Rostov’s Coffee & Tea do their share of introducing Richmonders to the many categories. Inside Rostov’s new Cary Street digs an exotic and educational ambience has been created, one where patrons are treated to rare selections, some of which are processed and formed into gumballs or pellets that unfold in your cup.
Manning the in-house java/tea kiosk at Rostov’s, Katie Lynch points to a number of local faves. “The ‘Richmond Blend’ is definitely really popular,“ she oozes, explaining that the combo of cloves, orange, and cinnamon give it a crowd-pleasing boost. Another favorite says Lynch, Yerba Mate-an organic South American stimulant often consumed in a gourd with a bombilla (sipping straw).
“People are definitely asking more and more for tea here in Richmond,“ she adds, “especially in the past few months.“
Across the river at Crossroads Coffee & Ice Cream on Forest Hill Avenue, co-owner Will Herring posts his tea list front and center in response to customer demand. “There has been a tremendous growth of green tea and the public’s awareness of its medicinal benefits,“ explains Herring.
Herring, who offers a China Gunpowder (a slightly smoky yet sweet option) and Genmai forms of green tea, says he sees no end in sight for what was once only a niche product.
Tea enthusiasts insist that gram for gram these specialty teas have less caffeine than coffee, yet contain antioxidants and a variety of vitamins, minerals and amino acids that boost energy, fight fatigue and help lower cholesterol.
Back at Capital Coffee and Desert, Mergar is calmly perched at his post behind the coffee counter with a cup of his shop’s loose leaf tea in hand. Health and hip factors aside, he’s just hoping he can make it to day-four sans java.
Five Teas to Try
Young Hyson
Chinese green tea that produces a golden yellow brew with a smooth but robust flavor.
Golden Assam
A bold Indian black tea described as sweet and robust.
Lapsang Souchong
Chinese black tea withered over pine or cedar fires and dried in bamboo baskets over burning pine. The result is a bold, smoky and earthy brew.
Yerba Mate
Green tea popular in South America as coffee alternative. Known as “The Drink of the Gods.“
Rooibos African Red Bush
Decaf tea from the South African Red Bush. Unique, herbal flavor loaded with antioxidants.
Published March 15, 2007
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